What to check first
Open the foliage gently
Look through the outer green sprays toward the trunk. Seasonal turnover chiefly affects older inner foliage and often becomes conspicuous in autumn. Photograph a whole branch, including its green tip, instead of only a handful of fallen brown material. That context is essential. [1]
Compare plants and sides
Record whether the entire row shows similar inner shedding or whether one plant has brown outer growth. After winter, compare the exposed face with the sheltered side. An uneven pattern helps locate a wind or site problem; it does not by itself establish the cause. [1] [2]
Check the water history
Note drought, recent planting, irrigation changes, and whether the soil stayed wet. Newly planted evergreens and exposed plants can be particularly vulnerable to winter drying. Check moisture where the original root ball sits as well as nearby soil, and write down what you find before altering irrigation. [2]
Wait for the appropriate growth check
For possible winter injury, observe buds and green shoots as growth resumes. Brown foliage may stay brown while surviving parts grow. Record whether the affected area is stable or extending; a progressively expanding brown branch is a different situation from one seasonal flush of inner shedding. [1] [2]
Choose the next step for your plant
Leave normal shedding alone
If browning is confined to older inner foliage and the outer growth looks healthy, keep normal care and watch the pattern. You do not need to cut away the green shell to reach every brown spray. Photograph the same section again after the shedding period. [1]
Protect an exposed plant and investigate decline
Where winter exposure fits, plan a breathable wind barrier positioned away from foliage and maintain suitable moisture before ground freeze. If outer browning spreads, submit a whole-plant photograph, close-ups, and watering history to Extension before pruning substantial live growth or replacing the plant. [2]
What to avoid
- Do not treat normal inner autumn shedding with insecticide or extra fertilizer.
- Do not remove large areas of green foliage to reach brown material inside.
- Do not keep already saturated soil wet because the canopy looks dry.
What to watch next
Compare the outer tips over the next few weeks of active growth. Seasonal inner loss should not steadily consume the green exterior. For winter damage, reassess after spring growth begins. Promptly investigate widespread outer browning, branch collapse, or a single failing plant in a healthy row.
Common questions
Does evergreen mean every leaf stays green permanently?
No. Arborvitae replace older foliage. Inner sprays can turn gold or brown and fall, often in September or October in northern climates, while newer outer foliage remains green. [1]
Will brown winter foliage turn green again?
Dead foliage will not recover its color. Surviving growing points may make new growth, so wait to assess the plant’s spring response before making large pruning decisions. Recovery depends on how much living tissue remains. [2]
Sources and review
This guide was prepared with AI assistance and checked against the sources below. It has not been reviewed by a botanist. Conditions and plant responses vary; use the checks above to decide what applies. Read our editorial standards.
- University of Minnesota Extension: Arborvitae—Inner foliage turns brown
Older inner arborvitae foliage commonly browns and falls during seasonal turnover while outer foliage remains.
- University of Minnesota Extension: Protecting trees and shrubs in winter
Evergreen winter drying often affects exposed sides. Wait for spring growth to assess surviving buds, and use site protection and appropriate moisture.